When I got the opportunity to re-release my first two books, which had gone out of print, my publisher and I decided that they should be combined into one brand-new volume, Ready for Dessert, with new photos and more than a dozen new recipes added. So I made a master list of all the recipes, then chose my absolute favorites: the ones I'd found myself making over and over again during the years invariably rose to the top.
I had to choose le top du top, as they say in France. Then I sent the list to my editor, who worked for many years at a food magazine known for their exactitude and trying a recipe over and over and over again with every variation (a bit crazy, like me), and we went back and forth for a while, until we agreed on the ones for the final book.
I originally imagined I would sit down and cut and paste recipes, putting them in order, and maybe adding a few notes here and there. But as I scrolled through the recipes, many of which I hadn't made in over a decade, I started reading through them more carefully. And soon I realized that I was not just making mental notes, but I was jumping up from my desk chair and heading to the kitchen, taking butter out of the refrigerator to soften, and running to the market to buy eggs by the flat.
Then, of course, there were those inevitable slips of paper that I make notes on, that became scattered around my apartment, finding their way into various files or transcribed hastily onto my computer with doughy fingers. (I am still scraping chocolate off my keyboard, by the way.)
As I mentioned in the introduction to the book, recipes aren't set in stone—which is a good thing, because otherwise using cookbooks would be a herculean task, sometimes when you look at something with a fresh perspective, you have those "Eureka!" moments.
This Chocolate Bread was in my second book, Ripe for Dessert, and when I was picking and choosing which recipes would make the cut, I had an overload of chocolate cakes and other treats in the book, including cream-filled Chocolate Cupcakes dipped in chocolate ganache. So this one didn't make it.
Another reason was that I didn't want people to make this and expect it to be like a decadent chocolate torte or rich chocolate pound cake. It's bread, and the resulting loaf will be firmer and less-buttery than a traditional cake. What you should expect, though, is the most amazing chocolate aroma wafting from your oven during the excruciating time it takes to bake and cool down. And it does make a wonderful afternoon snack, with a strong cup of coffee.
So I thought it'd be fun to give it a makeover here on the site. When giving it another look, I tried it a few times. Okay, who am I kidding. I re-did it about eight or nine times, exhausting every possibility I could think of.
What did I try? Well, since you asked...
1. Egg Yolks vs Whole Eggs: Yolks are almost pure fat, so they make things moister. And I thought maybe an extra yolk would make a substantial difference.
Verdict? Not enough difference to merit have 2 egg whites leftover.
2. All-Purpose flour vs Bread Flour: Because bread flour isn't something everyone has on hand, I wanted to see if it was vital for the bread.
Verdict? I hate to make you go to the store, but bread flour has more gluten and you'll get a better rise if you use it.
3. Dutch-Process Cocoa Powder vs Natural Cocoa Powder: I dipped into my stash of American cocoa powder, trying it with both Hershey's and an artisan brand. Then I tried it using Dutch-process cocoa and the different in flavor was pretty profound.
Verdict? Dutch-process. (The bread made with natural cocoa didn't rise as well, which makes me think the acid in the cocoa somehow interfered with the yeast action.)
4. Nuts vs No Nuts: Originally I made the recipe with nuts because, well, I like nuts and chocolate together. But I was on the fence about them in the end. So while they were nice and crunchy in there, you don't have to use them.
Verdict? You choose.
5. Instant vs Active Dry Yeast: Instant yeast isn't widely available in France yet, so I didn't try it. Fresh yeast, however, is. (You can ask your local boulanger for some.) Call me a stickler, but I used active dry yeast.
Verdict? If you want to swap one out for another, check the links at the end of the recipe for substitutions.
6. Milk vs Water: Originally I used water, but decided to give milk a try, since bread doughs made with milk have a softer crust and are a bit more tender.
Verdict? Whole milk works best, but low-fat milk or water is okay, too.
7. Chocolate Chips vs Chopped Chocolate: Chocolate chips are designed not to melt, and while that's sometimes an advantage, I don't mind softer bits of chocolate embedded in the bread. So I chopped mine up myself. And besides, I only have one bag of chocolate chips left that I brought back from the states, and I didn't want to use them up quite yet.
Verdict? I prefer chocolate chunks, but chocolate chips are fine to use.
I also made the dough a bit softer, and even considered trying a no-knead variation, although I decided that I actually like kneading bread. And also my friends (and neighbors...and vendors at the market...and delivery men...) were beginning to request something other than loaves of chocolate bread with a few slices taken out. So I decided it was time to stop.
You also might try slicing up a loaf and using it in your favorite bread pudding recipe (or the Orange-Almond Bread Pudding in Ready for Dessert). Or using it for a batch of French toast, if you're one of those people that needs to get your chocolate fix first thing in the morning—as I must confess, I often do.
Chocolate BreadOne 9-inch (23 cm) loaf
After much experimenting, I opted for a dough that much softer than the one I'm kneading up in the photos. And I eventually I settled on one that was soft enough to be scraped into the baking pan, just as is.
Use very good cocoa powder; here I used Valrhona, since I think the darker color and strong taste are important in the loaf. But another brand of Dutch-process cocoa should work fine, too.
If you don't have the coffee powder, you can leave it out. I like it since it add a subtle boost to the chocolate flavor. This recipe works best with bread flour, but if you can't get it, all-purpose flour works well, too. I've made a few notes at the end of the recipe about yeast and flour substitutions.
3/4 cup (180 ml) whole or low-fat milk, heated until just tepid1 envelope active dry yeast (1/4 ounce, or 2 1/4 teaspoons)—see Note
6 tablespoons (75 g) sugar
4 tablespoons (55 g) butter, salted or unsalted
3 ounces (85 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped, or chocolate chips
1 1/2 teaspoon instant coffee or espresso powder (optional)
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 teaspoon sea salt
2 cups (280 g) bread flour
1/4 cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
3/4 cup (3 1/2 ounces, 90 g) chocolate chips or coarsely chopped bittersweet or semisweet chocolate
1/2 cup (70 g) toasted pecans, walnuts, almonds, or hazelnuts, coarsely chopped (optional)
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the milk. Add one tablespoon (11 g) sugar, then set aside in a warm place for 10 to 15 minutes, until bubbles form on the surface.
2. While the yeast is activating, in a small saucepan, melt the butter and chocolate over a pan of barely simmering water. Stir occasionally, until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove from heat.
3. Once the yeast mixture is frothy, mix in the remaining sugar, the instant coffee (if using), the egg, vanilla, and sea salt.
4. Stir in half the flour and cocoa powder, then the melted butter and chocolate, then the remaining flour mixture, stirring until well-incorporated. If using a stand mixer, attach the dough hook and beat for five minutes, until smooth. If making by hand, mix vigorously with a flexible spatula for the same amount of time. The dough will seem quite moist, resembling sticky brownie batter when ready.
5. Cover the bowl and let rise in a warm place for 2 hours.
6. Butter a 9-inch (23 cm) loaf pan.
7. Stir in the chopped chocolate and nuts, if using. Then use a spatula to fold the dough over on itself in the bowl for about thirty seconds, then transfer it to the buttered pan, pressing a bit to spread it to the corners. Let rise in a warm place for one hour.
8. Ten minutes before you're ready to back the bread, preheat the oven to 350ºF (175ºC.)
9. Bake the bread for 35 to 40 minutes, until it feels done and sounds hollow when you tap it. You can stick an instant-read thermometer in the bottom if you're unsure; the bread is done when the temperature reads 180ºF (82Cº).
Notes: The equivalent amount of fresh yeast to one packet of dry yeast is .6 ounces. I've not used instant or quick-rising yeast (also called rapid-rise, or levure boulangère instantanée in France), but if you do try it, please let me know how it works out. According to various websites from yeast supplers (see below), you can use it in place of regular yeast. If you have questions about yeast, active dry or instant, I've included a few links below to the websites of various yeast companies, which you should find helpful.
In France, there really isn't any equivalent of bread flour. Due the to proliferation of bread machines, one can find farine pour pain or farine boulangère, but it usually has leavener already added. There's a 'hack' for making bread flour, in the links below.
Related Links and Posts
Yeast FAQs (Red Star Yeast)
Bread World (Fleischmann's Yeast)
Ingredients for American Baking in Paris
How to Make Bread Flour (eHow)
King Arthur Bread Flour (King Arthur Baker's Catalog)
James Beard's Amazing Persimmon Bread
Do I even have to bake the bread? Can't I just eat the dough? It looks amazing, especially the picture with the nuts in it.
Such a gorgeous and mouthwatering blog; thank you for sharing!
What I keep wondering every time you mention "tried the recipe for eight to ten times before I was sure": WHO EATS all your tryouts? This keeps me from continuing my search for the perfect white nougat recipe unless we have guests or are invited and don't have to eat everything ourselves.
Or do you - what a thought! - just reduce the amounts when you test different variations?
I've done a lot of bread making over the last few months but never tried a chocolate bread.
I have a batch of sourdough ready to go in the oven in 8hrs... do you think a choc sour dough would be viable... its gotta be worth a shot surely??!!!!??!
Dylan
Looks so delicious - chocolate & bread both are my fave food and i eat them everyday! A combo of both would be lethal! I could even eat the dough - if not for the yeast..lol!! Definitely bookmarking this... :D
You talk about sending people out to buy ingredients like bread flour and yeast, yet the only thing on there that isn't in my cupboard is instant coffee!
I've eaten a shop-bought version of something similar. Perfect for breakfast, chocolate-y, but bread like enough to make you feel that you're not starting the day with dessert. Definitely a recipe to try this weekend.
I LOVE this insight into recipe construction! Thank you - and now I know why you're the amazing professional and I tend to buy bread from a bakery :P
Yay for chocolate bread. I have never had a yeast based bread with chocolate in it.
Seriously - yum! I've never tried chocolate bread but sounds like a perfect afternoon treat. It's getting colder here so this will be so nice to enjoy warm.
oh wow chocolate french toast??? sounds so heavenly!
I tried making breads before and had excellent results but haven't tried making a chocolate bread though.
as much as I like the pictures and all the ingredients used, I do not think it would be something I would really like... as you said, it is not a cake and I think I would be disappointed, this time I will pass
That bread is mouthwatering! Beautiful.
Wow, you've got me drooling. Definatly giving this one a try. Thanks.
David - can you check the final sentence - "the bread is done when the temperature reads 180ºF (355ºC)." I think it might be supposed to read 180C and 355F...
Let me start with Oh My Gawd!.....and then say, I'd definitely prefer nuts! It looks better than chocolate cake to me.
David, can't you get SAF instant yeast? It's a French product. Surely G. Detou has it.
Today I'm making pain meunier, but this chocolate bread is next! Thanks for the recipe, it looks wonderful!
I love all kinds of bread and I love chocolate, then the combination is perfect for me. I'll try soon. Thank you very much!!!
The bread looks amazing! We are carboholics in our house and what could be better then bread and chocolate? I think I will try making this with my kids. Thanks for sharing.
wow. This is dedication. Sorry I was not around to try you out testing yet another variation! (Wish I had your patience on variations. My variations are always due to me running out of an ingredient or two, and sometimes I saw the light with a random substituition, but most of the time you barely notice the difference, and occasionally you do get a disaster).
Great primer on how to tweak and test. I really appreciate your insights. Thanks David. My wife will love this bread!
What is it with chocolate, beside that facts that it is legal, tastes great, is affordable, and makes us feel great?
As usual, you are feeding my habit.
For crying out loud, David, send us your addr so we can send you some chocolate chips! Only one bag left?!? Not good!
I'm so excited - I've searched HIGH and low for chocolate bread. Now I can make the Bongo Room's Chocolate Tower French Toast - Thanks to you!
~Mary
this looks FABULOUS, thanks for sharing the recipe on the blog - i don't believe the book is available in switzerland yet (especially in english). but on one of my trips home i am SO buying it. :)
Joan: I've not had great luck with SAF yeast. I know people say it's great, but I've tried it a few times and can't get it to proof or rise properly. I buy it in Arab markets, where it comes in sealed tins and I check the expiration date. So I often bring back a few packets of yeast from the states for recipe testing.
Erin: You can order books in English (including mine) from Book Depository, which offers free shipping around the world. (Not everywhere, but close!)
elemjay: Oops, got my metrics switched up. And I think you did, too ; )
Thanks for pointing that out!
Susie: I usually use chopped chocolate, which I prefer. But some folks like chips so I try to test recipes with both.
This looks awesome. There's a bakery in my 'hood that makes a chocolate cherry bread that this reminds me of... if the recipe works the first time, the 2nd time I might have to try putting cherries in.
It's funny, I'm not a big chocolate guy, but I like it best in non-dessert situations.
Would it be weird to serve this in the evening with a red wine? I like wine but I don't know much about which wines go best with which foods.
The pictures looked lovely and mouthwatering. I wish I knew how to operate our oven, I would go crazy just baking stuff.
Okay, David and Elemjay, the final answer is, please... "The bread is done when it registers" What Degree F or What Degree C?
David, your food photography skills are amazing. You could make lima beans look like something I'd actually consider eating. You've inspired me to try some of my own. (That would be photography, not lima beans...)
this looks absolutely amazing. can't say i've ever had yeasted chocolate bread, but i will certainly try this.
can't wait to get ahold of your book - just got some birthday money (!!!) so i'll pick it up off my wishlist :-)
How cool does the chocolate mixture need to be before adding into the main mixture?
This looks fantastic, I am dying to try it! Thanks!
David I just started a diet! I bet this is good warm from the oven, mmmm. . . .
This recipe looks amazing. I can see myself eating a slice with morning coffee. Maybe a batch of chocolate french toast for lunch and chocolate bread pudding with dinner.
wow david. This is bringing back awesome memories of baking this bread when my husband and I were newly married and living in Far Rockaway NY. I was (and still am) a bit scared of baking dessert but I had gotten your "Ripe for Dessert" book out of the library and wanted to trying every single recipe! And I do remember the intoxicating smell while it was baking. Must make this again-thank you for sharing the recipe!
Wow. Chocolate and bread...two of my favorite things in one stop. Definitely trying this! I love the comparison section of this post, i.e. nuts vs. no nuts. So interesting and informative for us not so savvy bakers. Please do that again in the future:)
btw, I never thought about the fact that chocolate chips don't melt. Funny, how you grow up with something and never question it's design. I like to chop my own chocolate as well, but when lazy, often use the chips. Not so sure I will anymore. Kind of weirds me out. What in the heck is in them that keeps them from melting?
Love the post:)
Wow! What a PB&J sandwich this would make!
Question? How long will this keep (yeah, right!) and how to store it? Can it be frozen or will it bloom the chocolate bits too unappetizingly?
i just mixed this up this morning and I added cranberries instead of nuts....I'm certain that it'll be fantastic. the dough sure was tasty.
Oh this looks so good! As always, thank you for sharing. Your book arrived in the post a couple of days ago and it just so happened to fall open on the chocolate chip cookie page. Cue a quick trip to the local shop for chocolate. I love love LOVE them!!! I did the most idiotic thing though and halved the recipe... Why??! I'm actually suffering withdrawal symptoms... By the way, if I can't fit into my wedding dress in a few month's time, I'm totally blaming you ;-)
Mmmm...can't wait to make this and then try french toast or bread pudding with it, if I can keep my kids from making peanut butter sandwiches!
I have been wondering about bread flour and how essential it is...Thanks for clarifying that it is in fact essential! What an amazing bread!
There's a bakery in my hometown that makes chocolate bread and whenever we visited I begged my mom to buy some. Now it seems I can make my own whenever I want it!
That looks amazing. At first I thought it might be like a babka type bread, but it's so much more than that! I must make this soon.
As I was reading, I thought: "Oh man! What great French Toast and bread pudding that would make!" And then you beat me to it! I can also imagine some nice cried cranberries or other dried fruit added to make it an even heartier snack. And to echo others, pbj with this? It would be awesome.
Julia: To me, there's nothing more frustrating than, what I call, the "1/4 cup squab stock-syndrome." When recipes use an odd or obscure ingredient, when a more common one would likely suffice. The bread flour does make a less-dense loaf so I do recommend it. I'm fairly sure most American supermarkets carry it, but am not sure about elsewhere.
Rosy: I love those cookies, too! Just be sure if you make them, and chop up your own chocolate, add the little dust-like bits of chocolate, which give the cookies a chewy, chocolate texture!
Vera: Since chocolate doesn't get heated up too much to be melted, it just needs to be liquified and won't be too warm when you add it.
Cyndy: My mother used to be make frozen lima beans, over roasted in beef fat, until crispy on the outside. Those were the best things ever! Give 'em a try..(or perhaps I should, if I could find frozen lima beans in Paris...)
David, I am so disappointed in you.
One does not scrape chocolate off the computer keyboard.
One licks chocolate off the keyboard (in private of course), savoring every last morsel.
Wasn't there some kind of chocolate bread on offer at Club Med? David, come clean. The real reason you made this bread was because you were missing your beach time. ;) Which, considering the recent turn of events affecting your vacation, I can completely understand. xo
HI David,
This is totally off of the chocolate bread topic but I was wondering what recipe you would suggest for a layer cake of the two below
your almond cake from Chez Panisse http://www.davidlebovitz.com/recipes/almond_cake.html
or your almond cake from food and wine http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/almond-layer-cake-with-lemon-frosting
I know the second is a layer cake but I really love the first recipe and have only made it as cupcakes so I'm not sure how it would hold up for a layer cake.
Thanks!
Love this and totally cracking up over the choc chip dilemma. I have the same problem here in Germany...
Thanks for your "What did I try" notes--very helpful for this and other recipes. And, thanks for another excuse to have chocolate for breakfast!
What do you think of using hazelnuts and spreading some of your homemade Nutella on it? Would it cover up the flavor of the bread? Mmm...mouth watering just thinking about it.