Cornmeal & Fresh Fruit Cake, finally!
Every once and a while I come across a baked good whose recipe I must have. Great bakers are everywhere, not just in professional kitchens. People own recipes passed down, make one thing very well, and/or you meet a cake at a party that you must have, no matter what you have to do for it.
Recipes are meant to be shared.
And if you don't want to share recipes, guess what? We have no choice. Recipes are shared. They were shared with you, and, especially here on the Internet, they are shared by millions of people.
For these reasons, it is often difficult to tell people the exact origin of a recipe. "Well this cute girl with a pretty 1940's polka dot dress gave it to me." "My great grandmother in the Bronx copied down her strudel recipe from a neighbor, in Yiddish." "An old boyfriend gave it to me in exchange for my recipe for chocolate chip cookies."
But more likely, "I've been making this for so long, in so many variations at so many restaurants, I don't know where I found it originally."
This recipe was given to me by an old friend, Rachel. She has a nice touch for baking. The cake was named Rhubarb Cornmeal Cake, but I have also used quince, plums, peaches, nectarines, blueberries and many other fruits would be lovely. It's always good to have a cake around that's versatile, sturdy enough for raw fruit, and isn't too sweet. I haven't baked it in a loaf, but I imagine it sould make a nice toasted tea bread, or breakfast treat.
But it's best the day it is made. Especially if the fruit you use has raw, exposed sides; in fact when this is the case, one has to be careful about the dough around said fruit remaining wet. It's why blueberries do well in it-- they are little balloons, but when they burst, the cornmeal holds in the moisture well.
RHUBARB CORNMEAL CAKE
CUBED, SLICED RHUBARB 10 oz.
*LIGHT BROWN SUGAR 2 Tablespoons*
UNSALTED BUTTER, room temp. 4 oz.
SUGAR 4 oz.
LIGHT BROWN SUGAR 1 oz.
LARGE EGGS 2 ea.
VANILLA EXTRACT SPLASH
LEMON ZEST, optional of one lemon
ORGANIC CORNMEAL 1/2 C
ALL PURPOSE FLOUR 1 C
BAKING SODA 1 teaspoon
KOSHER SALT 1/2 teaspoon
GROUND CINNAMON PINCH
GROUND CARDAMON PINCH
NUTMEG TINY PINCH
SOUR CREAM 1 C
WHOLE MILK 2-3 TABLESPOONS
{If you want to know why this recipe is laid out differently than most, click on this link.}
Preheat oven to 350F Butter a 9" round cake pan.
*The brown sugar that comes after the rhubarb is omitted if you are using any other fruit. If you are using rhubarb, toss it and brown sugar in small bowl ONLY 2-3 minutes BEFORE you fold fruit into batter. (You do not want the rhubarb to macerate, you just want to give it a tad coat of sweetness to offset how sour it is.)
~ Sift all the dries except the cornmeal and the salt. Whisk together to incorporate and create a "well" in the center. Add cornmeal and salt. {We don't sift them as they will not make it through the sieve.}
~ Cream the butter on a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Add both sugars and continue creaming. Scrape down at least once and cream until much lighter in color.
~ Crack eggs into a bowl. To this add vanilla extract and lemon zest if you want it there. Meyer lemon zest is wondrous, as is tangerine... or lime if you're feeling really zesty!
~ Add egg mixture "one at a time" to butter/sugar mixture. Scrape down, increase speed, and cream until light and thoroughly incorporated.
~ In another bowl/measuring cup, mix milk in with sour cream for a few seconds so that mixture is uniform.
~ As with the Yellow Cake, you are using the Dry, Wet, Dry, Wet, Dry method. With this method, you turn mixer down to the lowest setting it goes. Your first "third" of drys will be a big third, the 1/2 of wet (= sour cream/milk) will be an exact 1/2 and so on. You are always adding in the next D or W JUST before the batter looks uniform/incorporated.
~ Mix fruit into batter by hand, off the mixer, gently with a spatula. Flatten batter into pan so that it is even. I like to reserve a little fruit for the top, pressing it in and sprinkling a generous amount of raw/turbinado/demerara sugar over the top. These sugars create another texture and caramelly flavour to the cake when it's done. The cake isn't very sweet, and either are these sugars, so the effect is wonderful.
~ Bake cake pan on a cookie sheet or a 1/2 sheet pan. Set the first timer for 30 minutes. When this timer goes off, turn cake around so it faces the other way. Set the next timer for 15-20 minutes. Your cake may not be done when the second timer goes off, but it's always a good idea to keep an eye on a cake...
~ Cake is done when sides pull away from the pan and a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. because this cake holds within it fresh fruit, I often keep it in the oven for about 5 minutes after it's done. Baked goods made with fresh, raw exposed fruits can sometimes get a little gooey even after they "tell you" they're done with the skewer method. It's about moisture content. If you have further questions about this, leave a comment and I will try and explain it more in depth.
~ Cool cake to room temperature fully before cutting into it. Do not refrigerate this cake, it will behave badly if you do.
~ If you think you are going to make this cake a lot, here's a great trick:
Mix up the dries in advance, let's say a X6 recipe. For each cake you will need just under 9 ounces of dries for each cake. Store dries in a cool dark place, in a tightly covered glass or hard plastic container. In this way you will have the "mix" on hand for a quick fruit & cornmeal cake!
"Recipes are meant to be shared."
YES. Yes, yes, yes. Just like food. Even if you invented the recipe, what are you saving it for? What if someone you know can figure out a way to improve it? What can this do but give you more? And then there is more.
This cake looks luscious. I don't think I've ever eaten one like it before. The closest I've seen was something called "kuchen" my mom made from a barely sweet yeast dough and fresh fruit. I don't handle yeast very well in this climate; I just don't have the knack. Meanwhile, one of my true love's favorite things in the whole world is sweet cornbread. Obviously, what with one thing and another, I'm going to have to try this.
Thank you!
Posted by: Sara | 08 December 2006 at 08:40 AM
Yum. I love the combination of fruit and a not too sweet cake, like a perfect biscuit shortcake, or a thing my mother used to make - we called it "Tar Cake" - it was a blueberry upside down cake with butter and brown sugar in the berries, but a hardly sweet cake. Looking forward to trying this. Thanks.
Posted by: maggie | 08 December 2006 at 08:54 AM
Shuna,
Is the moisture a problem because the fruit will leech after the temperature goes down or because it falls apart?
You know someone had to be a pain in the ass.
May try this today, headed to the farmer's market now.
Thanks,
F
Posted by: Joe Fish | 08 December 2006 at 09:26 AM
I'm fighting (what appears to be a losing war) with an icky cold.
NOTHING has sounded good until this cake, particularly with the rhubarb.
A slice of cake, a cup of Rooibos tea, and my medicine dog all on my new sofa watching the first season of House, MD.
Posted by: Fatemeh | 08 December 2006 at 10:13 AM
Oh, goodie. This sounds just the ticket for the coming rainy weekend. I love the blueberry balloons bursting. Thanks for another recipe and for the words about the origins of our recipes.
Posted by: kudzu | 08 December 2006 at 11:25 AM