Every year I spend an inordinate amount of my time poaching fruit. It's usually because I'm powerless to resist all the pears in baskets at my market, and buy far more than I need. Yes, much of my sweet bounty find its way into sorbets, cakes, ice creams, and jams. But one of my favorite ways to keep those pears around a little longer is to poach them.
Poaching is gentle, stove-top cooking, and winter pears are ideal candidates since they keep their shape. Poaching also improves the taste of ho-hum pears. That's especially good news for you do-ahead folks out there; the longer the pears sit in the flavorful syrup after poaching, the better they'll taste. Since there isn't a big variety of fruit tumbling my way in the winter, to get my fruit-fix, I'll keep some poached pears in the refrigerator and enjoy them diced and mixed with my mid-morning yogurt and granola.
Be sure to start with firm, ripe pears.
My choice are Bosc pears, also called Conference pears in France. Tiny Seckel pears, if you can get them, are lovely poached whole or in halves, with the cores scooped out. And bulbous Winter Nellis work very well, too. The Anjou I'm not wild about. Softer pears like Comice or Bartlett, while tasty, will fall apart during poaching, so they'll have to go stand in the corner.
You can customize the poaching liquid to suit your taste, adding various spices, fresh ginger, vanilla beans, or wine to the mix. And I also change sweeteners, swapping out honey for sugar. Just be sure to keep it relatively simple. It's nice to make things lively, but too many flavors can spoil the broth.
Once the pears are poached, I'll often add a handful of dried fruits, such as sour cherries, cranberries, raisins, or currant to the still-hot liquid, and the heat will plump them up nicely.
Poaching pears couldn't be easier, but during cooking, the one thing you want to watch out for is the pears either poking out of the water, or not cooking them enough. Either will cause the pears to discolor. You want to make sure they cook evenly, and thoroughly.
To prevent this, I craft a circle of parchment paper to fit over the top of the pears, while they're cooking.
Simply take a large circle or square of parchment paper and fold it into a triangle. Hold the point hovering over the center of the pan you're using, then use your scissors to trim away the excess paper, so it'll fit snugly over the fruit. Then cut a hole in the center, which will allow some of the steam to escape and help the liquid reduce a bit. Drape the paper over the pears while they're cooking, pressing down every so often while they simmer, to make sure the liquid or vapor is covering them.
It's said that the scariest word you can use in a recipe is 'reduce', which I guess is because people don't know quite how far to take things. If you're not scared, you can reduce the liquid until it becomes a thick syrup and pour it over the pears before serving. If you want to do that, remove the pears with a slotted spoon and strain out the spices, then cook the liquid over medium-high heat until it's reduced by about half. If I'm serving the pears by themselves, or alongside a cake, I'll do that to make an instant sauce.
Poached PearsMakes four servings
I've offered a few variations at the end of the recipe. You can also poach the pears in halves (cored) or whole. Note that the poaching time will be longer if the pears are in larger pieces than quarters. The best way to test if the pears are done is by poking one with a paring knife; if it meets no resistance, it's done.
You can serve these pears alongside a favorite cake, like the chocolate pain d'épices, below, from The Sweet Life in Paris, or even a slice of regular Pain d'épices. Of course, they go very well with gingerbread, and I've even swapped them out for the quinces in Quince tarte Tatin.
1 quart (1l) water
1 1/3 cup (265 g) sugar
4 Bosc pears; peeled, cored, and quartered
Additions: One cinnamon stick, 2 teaspoons whole cloves, black peppercorns or allspice berries, one lemon half, one split vanilla bean, 2-3 star anise, 6-8 fresh ginger slices
1. In a large saucepan, heat the water and sugar until warm and the sugar is dissolved. Add any of the additions that you wish.
2. Slide in the pears and cover with a round of parchment paper, with a small hole cut in the center.
3. Keep the liquid at a very low boil and simmer the pears until cooked through, 15 to 25 minutes, depending on the pears.
4. Remove from heat and let the pears cool in their liquid.
Optional: After poaching the pears, while the liquid is still warm, add approximately 1/2 cup (120 g) dried sour cherries, cranberries, raisins, or dried currants and let them plump.
ServingServe the pears warm or at room temperature. Accompany with perhaps a scoop of Vanilla ice cream and some dark chocolate sauce, a spoonful of crème fraîche, Milk chocolate & black pepper ice cream, fresh raspberries, or alongside a wedge of spice cake or gingerbread.
StorageStore the pears in their liquid in the refrigerator, in a covered container, until ready to use. Remove the pears from the refrigerator a few hours prior to serving, and re-warm them gently in the liquid, if you wish. The pears will keep for up to 5 days.
VariationsIn place of the water, you can add 2 cups (500 ml) water and 2 cups (500 ml) white wine (sweet or dry) or sparkling cider, or 3 cups (750 ml) red wine and 1 cup (250 ml) water
In place of the sugar, you can use 1 cup (320 g) honey or 1 1/4 cups (275 g) dark, unrefined sugar, such as turbinado or cassonade.
Related Recipes & Links
Pear Ice Cream with Wine-Poached Pears (Use Real Butter)
Pear Butter (Simply Recipes)
Pain d'epices: French spice bread
Poached Pears with Maple (Perfect Pantry)
Marsala Poached Pears (Simply Recipes)
Pear Varieties (California Pear Advisory Board)
Hi David, how's it going? just wanted to say i love you, i've been stuck at home for the past few days due to h1n1 and dying of boredom, until i accidentally stumbled on your blog! :) at the moment confined to bland congee and such, but the moment i get better i am trying one of your lovely ice cream recipes!! (great photography btw, what camera do you use? the pics have got me salivating like no other..how cruel haha)
ciao now and take care
I smile a lot imagining your tiny kitchen overstuffed with fruit baskets and you in the middle, happy as a clam :D.
This poaching method seems so simple and flavorfull, I can nearly smell it from the pictures, especially "poached pears" just above the recipe : I love the way it's composed. You're really good at this !
I was wondering... I do not remember if you have already talked about a dehydrator device on your blog ? My mother in-law has one, and while it takes a lot of counter space for tiny parisian appartments, the results she has on her garden fruits (little red fruits, pears, peaches and all) is superb. At least, dehydrate some of the fruits would save space for the dehydrator itself on your counter :D
When they are done perfectly, there is nothing on earth quite as delicious as a poached pair. I love them... particularly drizzled with chocolate... and Bosc pears are my favorite. But I have never seen this parchment paper method before, and I am going to have to try it. Many recipes use wine for the poaching fluid, (and I notice you have it in the 'variation')... but you use water here so I imagine you prefer it. Is there a reason you don't use wine in the basic recipe? I am curious. If you do use wine with the Bosc pears, do you use white?
Thank you for this... I am buying way too much fruit too :)
Michaela
Hi David,
I am an argentine pâtissière, living in Paris since last may. I discovered your books and your blog here...I just love them!
Your interesting posting about "poaching pears" took me to the poached quince tarte tatin....that is one of my "Argentine classics" I poach quince in Malbec wine (preferably from the province of Mendoza, ha ha!), and I serve "la tarte" with "crème au mascarpone" (that I keep in a siphon till the last minute) The combination quince/fromage is a daily argentine dessert...we also replace the quince for "pâte de patates douces...a National favorite !!!! together with "dulce de leche" (confiture de lait), of course!!!!
Couldn't make it to your book signing event, a real pity! I was looking forward to meeting you....
Cristina, from Buenos Aires to Paris
PS/ I laughed a lot reading your "how to survive in Paris" I felt the same way
I love poached pears. Poaching transfers the humble pear into something entirely different.
Mmm, poached pears. What a great excuse to pick up a liter of salted butter caramel ice cream! And now i know what to serve for dessert on saturday. (We're having company.) So thanks! It was good to see you last week - and i'm definitely with you on the simplification. Glad it's not just me. :)
I poach whole pears in red wine for a very pretty and very simple dessert.
I peel them, and sprinkle with a little lemon juice (I leave the stems on and cut a slice off the bottom so they'll sit flat. Core them with a small melon baller.
Poaching liquid is red wine, honey, a cinnamon stick, a couple of cloves, and a couple of whole peppercorns.
I stand the pears in the liquid, then cover tightly...yes, I know that the tops are then technically steamed, but stay with me....the wine leaches into the bottom of the pears, so you get a gorgeous red fading into the yellow of the pears. Pretty. If you really want the last detail, make a tiny slit next to the stem with a paring knife and insert a mint leaf or two.
They're done when they're just soft, but a tiny bit al dente. Lift them out gently and keep them warm -- reduce the liquid if you wish, or just spoon some onto a platter. Serve whole with an almond tuile -- everyone raves about this one, and it's simple, light, and tasty.
I usually make it with Bosc/Conference, but I've also made them with Bartletts. The last time I made them, I told my produce vendor what I wanted, and he pulled out a box of absolutely picture-perfect Bartletts from under the counter. They weren't any more expensive than the others (it was a little early in the season) -- and they came out fabulous.
I think you must have forgotten just how delicious poached pears are with your salted caramel ice cream. In the Fall that is my go to recipe for dessert. Actually last night it was just the ice cream. Today we add the pears!
Thanks again!
Poached pears... I love them. I usually cook them with natural sweeteners such as maple syrup or malt. But I think they are great with unrefined sugar as well, as you suggested. Thanks for the parchment paper trick.
Dark chocolate shavings can also add a touch of excitement to simple poached pears.
Reducing used to scare me, but then I learned this trick:
Take a wooden spoon and put a rubber band on the handle (or you can mark it with a pencil). Stick the handle in whatever you need to reduce and mark the level with the rubber band. Then, start reducing. If you need to reduce by half, it is easy to see what half is by sticking the spoon handle in again and measuring against the rubber band.
Voila! No more accidentally reducing to practically nothing when you were only supposed to reduce by 1/3.
This is a great tutorial. I think the tip about the parchment paper is a great one. I just acquired a large amount of pears have been brainstorming ideas for what to do with them. This sounds like a great way to use some.
On my to do list this morning was to check my copy of Ripe For Dessert so I could make poached pears for my daugther's 5th grade French class. Thanks for anticipating my need!
Hi Dave...
how long will the pears keep in the refrig ??? Is it like canning ???
Thank you for this guide, yesterday I was actually thinking about poaching pears, but given that I have never done it I felt a little overwhelmed. I really love Abate pears, would those make good poaching pears or are they also too soft?
It kills me, I used to heckle my mom for loving cooked fruit so much and now I find it to be one of the best things there are, I guess that just goes to show the whole apple's distance from the tree thing people are always talking about. Yikes! Anyhow, no need to tell you the intricate details of my life, so thank you for helping me out with my next cooking adventure.
I too love poached pears - great to have some kicking around for a quick fix dessert with a smidge of ice cream. The first time I ever poached pears was with a few star anise thrown into the poaching liquid, but I have to admit I found it a bit overwhelming. Almost medicinal. Now would be much more inclined to use something that doesn't shout over the delicate pear flavour... like vanilla.
And the syrup, shaken with a bit of vodka over ice? Awesome...
Love your blog, David!
Frenchie: I'd never heard of Abate fetel pears, so I did a search and they look close to Bosc pears. I'd say yes, but if you try them, let me know how they work out. (Although I also read they're expensive, unless you're in Italy, so they might be better candidates for out-of-hand eating if they're pricey.)
Nick: That, my friend, is a great tip. Thanks!
Krysalia: I used to use a dehydrator, which I loved, but no longer have room for one. I am, however, making room for my new deep-fryer. I guess it's all about priorities ; )
Camille: I think living in France, you get used to things have simpler flavors. When I lived in the states, I was a lot more heavy-handed with the spices and flavorings when baking, but have come to appreciate pure flavors much more.
Michaela: I wanted to present a very basic recipe, then give folks a bunch of options (or discover their own.) Because a portion of people don't drink wine, or may be serving these to kids, I give the wine proportions as an option.
ron: Storage info is mentioned at the end of the recipe.
Haley: Great tip! I once was reducing a fairly expensive bottle of sauternes, and I looked away for a moment (or more, perhaps..) and when I came back, the whole thing had evaporated!
I have tree of pears that needs to be picked within a week when they ripen so I am always trying to find ways to preserve them. One year I have poached few and I still have some jars left. I used star anise and a little cinnamon in the syrup and they worked so well.
Thanks for reminding me of this great way to preserve fruit, time to open a jar!
That pear looks like a real little bad-ass, hanging out in the corner with that peeling paint and sketchy "pavement". All it needs is a smoke and a tin of spraypaint!
I laughed out loud when I saw the poor little Bartlett pear sitting by itself in the corner thinking about the tragedy of fate that makes it fall apart in a poaching liquid.
Thanks for that!
David- Looks wonderful! I love poached pears, have been making them for years. I use red wine and concord grape juice with a little cinnamon and lemon zest. When the pears are done I reduce the poaching liquid down to a thick sauce. The sauce is reduced enough when large bubbles start to appear. I serve the pears with roasted grapes drizzled with the sauce and a dollop of creme fraiche. Délicieux
PS, looking forward to meeting you in Ixtapa!
Beautiful post David! As always... Poached pear are a favorite in my household too (how can they not?!). I love poaching Bosc because of their slightly "floral" aroma and their firm flesh.
When I lived in Vermont, I decided to try poaching pears with a little maple syrup. To my surprise it turned out absolutely delicious and I didn't have to use as much of it as I would sugar. Since then, I haven't poached pears in anything else!
I wrote a post about that I my blog... I would love for you to check it out.
Thank you so much!
PS: Love the trick with the parchment paper - I usually turn the pears over half way through the cooking to prevent discoloring, but now I'll have to try this!
Fabulous tutorial, David. Sad that my favorite pear, the Comice, has to sit in a corner, though. I don't like the taste of Bosc. Pretty, yes, but flavorless, which is why the poaching liquid is oh so critical.
I just poached some pears in pomegranate juice and they're a lovely color and flavor. They're also pretty and tastey poached with cranberries - tiz the season afterall.
Just picked up 3 kg of hard pears at the market for 0.90 euros/kg, so poached pears are in my future :) But I'm going to do this:
http://www.cottagesmallholder.com/bottled-fruit-belgian-pears-recipe-101
I tried it for the first time last week and they were the BEST poached pears I've ever had. Plus once bottled, you can keep them for up to a year. And give them as presents. I don't have a photo, but they come out almost mahogany coloured -- beautiful.
I love the tip about the paper -- I'll definitely try that. There's so little liquid in Belgian pears that it can be difficult to keep them submerged.
A whole bottle of Sauternes? That is a tragic loss! But I bet your kitchen smelled nice.
Love the parchment.
I like to use pears as part of a savory dish with pork or ham, I poach them with bay leaves - a Stephanie Alexander recipe, she also poaches pears with lemon myrtle leaves, which I would love to try but Myrtus communis is a little hard to find out here on the end of Long Island!
Thanks for a wonderful blog!
Veronica: Thanks for the link. But do you just cook the pears whole for that length of time, then pack them into jars? What about the seeds and cores?
Haley: Luckily it was at a restaurant. Well, not luckily for them...
June: Yes, fruit juice works really well, too.
viviane: I love maple syrup, but was afraid unless you used a good quantity of it, the flavor would get lost. And since it's expensive I hesitated to suggest it without trying it. Glad to know it works.
Chef Gwen: I wouldn't feel too bad for the Comice pear. It got some good lovin' later...sliced, diced, and mixed with some oatmeal.
Sounds delicious. How ripe should the pears be for the best result?
Thanks for the tip about using the parchment. I get tired of standing over them submerging them with my utensils! The poaching liquid is also great to use as a basting liquid for broiling the pears or roasting other fuits or root vegetables. I have added Port, a little stock and fresh rosemary to it, reduced the sauce and basted them to serve with a Pork roast. Very tasty! Oh, and I bet those pears are wonderful with your sticky toffee pudding, too.