If you're thinking that you've been 'set up' by the previous post for Chocolate Sherbet, je suis coupable. (I am guilty.) You likely know Adam Ried as the man who obsessively tests equipment and recipes on American's Test Kitchen. He was also an editor at Cook's Illustrated for ten years. So when I saw his new book devoted to milkshakes, because I always have a freezer full of ice creams, sherbets, and sorbets, I was delighted to have a fool-proof collection of well-tested recipes—and my blender has been begging for mercy ever since.
Because he's super-sweet, I asked Adam if he'd like to share a recipe from Thoroughly Modern Milkshakes, his all-new collection of milkshake basics, plus everything from Malted Caramel to Mango, Chile, and Lime. I was delighted when he agreed.
So get out those blenders, and welcome Adam Ried!... dl
Shake de l'Opéra
"Opera."
Quick..... what leapt to your mind when you read that word? For the culture vultures among us, maybe it was Monteverdi. Or Mozart. Or Wagner.
For me, it would be chocolate (which, admittedly, often comes to mind no matter what words I'm reading), followed immediately by coffee, and then almond.
This winning flavor trifecta defines gâteau de l'Opéra, an ever-present stalwart of pâtisseries from one end of Paris to the other. Most gâteaux de l'Opéra hew pretty close to this alluring formula: thin layers of almond cake, soaked in coffee syrup, alternated with layers of coffee buttercream and chocolate ganache, all hidden under a cloak of glistening chocolate glaze.
So you know what you're dealing with, the name "l'Opéra" is usually written across the top of the cake, also in chocolate. The almond is the master stroke here, because it gently underscores the myriad sweet, fruity, and nutty flavor notes in the chocolate itself while balancing some of the bitterness of the coffee.
Wondering why les gâteaux should have all the fun, I poached the combo in question to flavor a milkshake— to very nice effect if I may say so. And that was just the beginning. Finding myself on something of a blender bender, I raided many corners of the food world for milkshake inspirations, resulting in the 100 recipes that comprise my book, Thoroughly Modern Milkshakes.
Jokingly referred to (by me, and friends who are willing to humor me since I ply them regularly with shakes) as "the world's preeminent treatise on the critical topic of milkshakes," the book sets forth to do the very important work of both dusting off the old classic shakes like vanilla, chocolate, coffee, and strawberry, and sprucing them up with simple, delectable, and unexpected flavor twists.
L'Opéra is a fine example. At its heart, it's a simple chocolate shake. Add a drop of almond extract and a little espresso powder, and you've transformed plain chocolate into something new, surprising, and - I hope -- intriguing.
The chocolate portion of the program is brought to you by chocolate sorbet rather than the usual syrup. For generations chocolate syrup has done a perfectly lovely job of flavoring chocolate shakes, but have you tasted a spoonful of the stuff straight up? Helloooooo corn syrup. Chocolate is but a distant afterthought. Chocolate sorbet, on the other hand, packs a turbocharged cocoa wallop, and that intensity comes through full throttle in a milkshake. In fact, sorbet - chocolate and otherwise -- is central to my milkshake modernization program because, regardless of the flavor, sorbet blazes past syrup in terms of flavor intensity, and you can taste that in the shakes.
Instant espresso powder covers the coffee angle. Though I wouldn't dream of using the stuff to make an actual hot coffee beverage (espresso? Methinks not. I tried it once, and there is no need to go there again), yet neither would I make a batch of basic brownies without it. Or a flourless chocolate cake. Or chocolate mousse. Or truffles. Or.........
Whether you use enough to actually create a coffee flavor depends on our tastes. In baking and custards and such I use just a little to pick up and extend the bittersweet, toasty, earthiness of the chocolate, adding complexity, but not a strong coffee flavor.
Does the Shake de l'Opéra trump the original gâteau? Bien sûr, non! Without a doubt the cake will forever have a place in my heart. But for a quick, frosty, summertime fix, blending beats baking.
Shake de l'Opéra
Makes about 3 1/2 cups (about 3/4l)
Adapted from Thoroughly Modern Milkshakes (Norton) by Adam Reid
Medaglia D'Oro is a popular brand of instant espresso powder that you can often find in gourmet and Italian specialty shops. Tread lightly with it, and with the almond extract, especially in dishes that don't see any heat. Almond extract is stronger than you may expect. It's an unmistakable flavor that's out-loud-and-proud, unlike vanilla extract, which blends into the scenery easily.
1/2 cup (125ml) cold whole or low-fat milk
2 ½ teaspoons instant espresso powder
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
4 medium scoops French vanilla ice cream (about 1 pint/340 grams), softened until just melty at the edges
4 medium scoops chocolate sorbet (about 1 pint/340 grams), softened until just melty at the edges
1. Place the milk, espresso powder, and almond extract in a blender and blend to mix thoroughly, about 15 seconds.
2. Add the slightly-softened ice cream and sorbet and pulse several times to begin breaking the scoops up. With the blender motor off, use a flexible spatula to mash the mixture down onto the blender blades.
3. Continue pulsing, stopping, and mashing until the mixture is well blended, thick, and moves easily in the blender jar. Pour into a chilled glasses, and serve at once.
David Notes: Merci Adam! This was amazing and tasted exactly like the famed gâteau Opéra. I wasn't planning on drinking the whole blenderful, but sitting on my roof in the heat, after a few sips, the rest of it went down just too-easily. I was powerless to resist.
Although Adam's recipe calls for Chocolate Sorbet, I'm sure he'd agree that it'd be fine to use Chocolate Sherbet, as I did. I also used instant coffee, because instant espresso isn't easily available here, and tripled the quantity. Also, depending on which ice cream you use, if you find the shake too thick, feel free to add another splash of milk, or a bit of coffee or espresso to the blender.
Thoroughly Modern Milkshakes (Amazon)
AdamRied.com (Adam's Website)
Is 9:15 AM too early to try this? Hmmmmmmm ....
I love the opéra pastries, but they seem to have become much harder to find in Paris pastry shops. I'm not sure why .... sort of like a good Tropézienne, where I only know of one place in Paris that does a delicious one.
Hi David ! Hi Marlowe !
if you want to find a good Opera you should go to Dalloyau ! (I think they invented the Opera, by the way !)
but if you could give us your address for the Tropézienne... it's one of my madeleine de Proust...
I always enjoy seeing Adam on the equipment corner segments on America's Test Kitchen. What a great summer read to follow up The Sweet Life in Paris.
Best milkshake of my life happened when I was 14. The Hotel Negresco used to have a small outdoor patio with less than 30 tables all facing the Promenade Anglais. I was on a school trip and this seemed incredibly chic to us. We all got dressed up, and went there very late, around midnight, and ordered ice cream. Their raspberry shake in that lovely place where we could gaze at the stars and listen to some guy play Hotel California on a guitar by the beach rocked my teenage world. I shared it with a dreamy boy, maybe that enhanced the memory of the shake too ;-) Whatever, I never forgot Nice, that night's walk holding the boy's hand along the Cote d'Azur, or the delicious pretty pink raspberry milkshake. I even have pictures, I'm going to go find them now.
Thanks for another fantastic post and all the memories they bring. Truly sweet David.
Jérôme: It's funny, when I think of an Opéra, I always think of Dalloyau!
For the Tropézienne, I go to Stéphane Secco in the 7th: 20, rue Jean Nicot (between the rue St-Dominique and the rue de l'Université, it's the former Poujauran bakery). There is another location in the 15th at 75, Bd de Grenelle. I'm eating my way through Secco and haven't hit a dud yet (great bread, too).
I love L'Opera!
It is the best thing.
Chocolate. Almonds. Coffee.
Seriously.
What else is there in life?
I didn't realize it until I read this post, but this is exactly what I want RIGHT NOW. Thanks for sharing, Adam. (And thanks for getting Adam to share, David).
"Opera." For me, it was coffee first, and chocolate not too far behind. So fun to have Adam as a guest writer here. And oooh so glad he shared this recipe. Sounds delectably perfect, and impossible not to finish off an entire blender. Besides, if it's just you, the sun and the shake - what's to get in the way ?! I've got the first two already (well me, not you!), better get to work on the 3rd....
Mais bien sure, why not an Opera milkshake?
Any combo with chocolate and good dose of Espresso would be fantastic.
Mais bien sure, why not an Opera milkshake?
Any combo with chocolate and good dose of Espresso would be fantastic.
This sounds delicious! I made a batch of chocolate sherbet yesterday but it went fast so I might have to get the ice cream maker out again to make this.
Adam's segments are my favorite on America's Test Kitchen. I love the advice and how they carefully test all the options.
Really, I MUST learn not to read your site before breakfast. All my thoughts of healthy eating, right out the window. Bye bye fruit and yogurt, and oh, helllloooo opera shake!
This is exactly what I am craving! Thank goodness I have your chocolate sherbet in the freezer.
I just started reading your book, The Sweet Life in Paris, and I can't put it down! In fact, I only took a few moments to find your blog and tell you how much I am enjoying it! Now, I must pull myself away from this delicious post and dive into your world again! Thank you!
Ooh - this looks so great. I can't wait to try, and check out the milkshake book!
currently counting down the hours until i can leave work, buy all the necessary ingredients, make this wonderful looking concoction and think of a reason to give my husband as to why i'm having a milkshake for dinner (it's 10am in California, so 7 hrs to go!)
Hi Adam, thanks for this and all your great work with Cook's Illustrated and America's Test Kitchen.
Are there any recipes for a layered milkshake (like a Pousse-café) in your book?
Thanks Adam, for the recipe...sounds amazing. I'm a huge Cook's Illustrated fan; it's geek-cook HEAVEN.
David, my rear end has a bone to pick with you...if you don't quit posting these amazing recipe it's gonna grow as big as India!
I'm not sure if it's sad or just amusing that the first thing I think of when I hear the word 'Opera' is also the lovely cake and not the music. That milkshake looks so delicious. I think I'll have to try that soon. Maybe even this weekend...
Wow. I guess I know what I'll be making this weekend. Looks fabulous.
David, thanks for hosting Adam and his new book here with a recipe! Wow..the Perfect Scoop and Modern Milkshakes, what a perfect tandem read! Now I have to get Adam's book, too. Now maybe I can find out why (I hope) that blender milkshakes always have that curdled icy separation stuff in them (that's so unappealing to me) and has a remedy for it. Does the book address that?
Looks delicious!
I got a copy of Fine Cooking because I heard you had a nice ice cream article in it. It's perfect, just perfect.
Could we please have your recipe for the Gâteau de l'Opéra. Your trucs are just the best and makes it all a breeze.
Dillon
I am on a horrible low-cal diet - so.... mixed skim milk, good cocoa powder, espresso powder, 1/2 pure tsp almond extract, 1 TBSP splenda, 1 cup of ice cubes and blended - might have been reminiscent of L'Opera - better when I added a few drops of Kahlua!! Not too 'illegal' - made me feel not quite so deprived!! Wish I could join you in full! I sure do miss ice cream and sherbet!!! Thanks for the Memories!!
One need not use instant espresso or coffee powder, which is a horrifying aberration if ever there was, for milkshakes. Make espresso a little ahead, pour into an ice cube tray, and throw it in the freezer. Every iced espresso cube will roughly equal a shot of espresso; add a cube for every two-three scoops of ice cream.
This looks like fun. Yum!
Huh. Actually when I see Opera, the native Sydneysider in me immediately thinks of the Sydney Opera House. I love a good shake, but I find that most you buy nowadays are just glasses of very cold chocolate milk. Using heaps of ice cream and sorbet and very little milk like in this recipe seems to be the way to go.
Huh. Actually when I see Opera, the native Sydneysider in me immediately thinks of the Sydney Opera House. I love a good shake, but I find that most you buy nowadays are just glasses of very cold chocolate milk. Using heaps of ice cream and sorbet and very little milk like in this recipe seems to be the way to go.