A public display of chickpeas
Nothing makes a girl feel prone to public gloating like a present of cured pork from a very handsome vegetarian. And should he then, over the span of ten short days, churn from her kitchen a batch of whole-wheat pita, a bowl of silky-smooth hummus, a vat of fiery hot sauce, ten crisp and custardy cannelés,¹ two lunches’ worth of green papaya salad, rocky road candy with homemade marshmallows,² a quart of milk chocolate ice cream with cocoa nibs,³ a tart and tangy cilantro chutney, a softly sweet tamarind sauce, and the finest chana masala to ever flirt with her lips, she’s bound to start dishing—about the chickpeas, at least.
Mine is certainly not the first man to make chana masala, nor does he have any sort of pedigree—ethnic or otherwise—to lend him an air of authority in Indian cookery, but he does have a palate, and a very precise one at that. I may be the more orderly of our twosome, but next to his, my palate is a proverbial bull in a china shop, rubbing clumsily against a rabble of spices. I chew and swallow, but he concentrates, teasing apart tightly woven layers of flavor. So when he starts surveying the spice rack, I set the table, sit down, and watch.
All too often, restaurant renditions of chana masala are a show of alchemy gone astray. They pound the tongue with a heavy hand of tomato, smother the taste buds under a slick of oil, or tumble down the throat with a thud, the unfortunate result of unbalanced seasoning. Bold but delicate, Brandon’s version stands as a testament to the fine art of tasting, tweaking, and tasting again. It begins—as many good things do—with a pot of onions on the edge of burnt. Then comes a small but spirited parade of spices, a mess of tomatoes, cilantro, cayenne, and chickpeas, and a few studious spoonfuls for the cook. With a subtle sweetness and a soft rumble of heat, these are chickpeas worthy of a public display of affection—or a post, at least.
¹ Cannelé connoisseurs will note the unconventional shape of these. They were made in a mini Bundt pan and, all tradition aside, turned out pretty cute in this curvier incarnation.
² With, bien sûr, the help of David Lebovitz!
³ Ditto!
Chana Masala
When I’m not hovering next to him with a pen and paper, Brandon makes his chana masala by feel, tasting and tweaking, stirring and sniffing. The recipe that follows is our joint effort to make his rendition reproducible, and to make it user-friendly for those who love a good, prescriptive recipe, myself included. You should feel free, however, to taste and tweak as you see fit. It's the Brandon Way.
This chana masala can be served in two different styles: with a half-cup of whole-milk yogurt to smooth and soften the flavors, or sans yogurt, served with a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of fresh cilantro. I prefer the former, but Brandon leans toward the latter. Either way, this dish is even better the second—or third—day.
Good-quality olive oil
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp ground coriander
¼ tsp ground ginger
1 tsp garam masala
3 cardamom pods, lightly crushed
1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes
1 tsp kosher salt, or to taste
1 Tbs cilantro leaves, roughly torn, plus more for garnish
A pinch of cayenne, or to taste
2 15-ounce cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed
6-8 Tbs plain whole-milk yogurt, optional
A few lemon wedges, optional
Film the bottom of a large saucepan or Dutch oven—preferably not nonstick—with olive oil, and place the pan over medium heat. Add the onion, and cook, stirring frequently, until it is deeply caramelized and even charred in some spots. Be patient. The more color, the more full-flavored the final dish will be.
Reduce the heat to low. Add the garlic, stirring, and add a bit more oil if the pan seems dry. Add the cumin seeds, ginger, garam masala, and cardamom pods, and fry them, stirring constantly, until fragrant and toasty, about 30 seconds. Add ¼ cup water, and stir to scrape up any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook until the water has evaporated away completely. Pour in the juice from can of tomatoes, followed by the tomatoes themselves, using your hands to break them apart as you add them; alternatively, add them whole and crush them in the pot with a potato masher. Add the salt.
Raise the heat to medium, and bring the pot to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, add the cilantro and cayenne, and simmer the sauce gently, stirring occasionally, until it reduces a bit and begins to thicken. Taste, and adjust the seasoning as necessary. Add the chickpeas, stirring well, and cook over low heat for about five minutes. Add 2 Tbs water, and cook for another five minutes. Add another 2 Tbs water, and cook until the water is absorbed, a few minutes more. This process of adding and cooking off water helps to concentrate the sauce’s flavor and makes the chickpeas more tender and toothsome. Taste, and adjust the seasoning as necessary.
Stir in the yogurt, if you like, or garnish with lemon wedges and cilantro. Serve.
Yield: About four servings
15 Comments:
Beautiful Molly! You are the queen of those spices, aren't you?
Eheh, also, I could share a little treasure with you, (Being French helps here, aha! ;-) Check out my canelé recipe here! I am just addicted to them ;-)
http://www.beaskitchen.com/blog/2006/01/20/canele-creme-anglaise-a-la-cardamone-canele-with-cardamom-creme-anglaise/
Recipe below:
Canelé
I will definitely be trying this recipe. Indian food is die for. It's all in the spices, isn't it? Thanks!
Ooh, not fair! I've met the boy, and I can definitely confirm that he is dreamy. However, the fact that he made all that food for you is just decadence, times two.
Ah, but you deserve it. I can't wait to make this recipe too.
Great post! With your class and wit people are bound to smile when you flirt publicly. Thanks to both of you for posting the recipe.
Men bearing gifts of food are always welcomed! Dreamy or otherwise! Fab recipe.
oh gosh, delicious. i was wondering if you've ever supped at rialto's near green lake? my boyfriend treated me to a birthday dinner there this past sunday and it was DELICIOUS. we could have lived on the bruschetta alone.
I've been doing more Indian cooking lately, and will be checking the pantry for ingredients for this one. Thanks for sharing it!
I am definitely trying this recipe--I love spiced chickpeas-- as well as the caneles in mini bundt pan (though I love how French pastries involve so many different molds, I don't have the space or the money for them all).
By the way, I wrote about one of your recipes in my modest little blog-- check it out if you get the chance.
Oh gosh another foodie thing in common our love of chickpeas. I love them in Indian as you do with your brilliant recipe, in salads, snacking on dry ones and even out of the can;)
Could this be the best thing you've ever written? I mean, it's pretty hard to decide because you write beautifully all the time, but something about this post practically made me levitate. And thank you, thank you, for hovering over Brandon with a pen and paper - it is hard work transcribing a gourmet's wanderings in the kitchen. I can't wait to try this!
That made what's for dinner tonight easy... thanks to you and Brandon for the recipe.
As always, a great piece... who would object to a little swooning once in awhile. :)
By the way, would you happen to have a recipe for the hot sauce?
I could almost smell the spices wafting from my computer monitor as I read your post. Divine!
Dear Samantha,
Here is the recipe you asked for...its very quick and easy to make.
Hot Chile Pase
adapted from Mangoes and Curry Leaves by
Jeffrey Alford & Naomi Duguid
2TB chopped Ginger
3-4 cloves garlic chopped
1 small onion chopped
(or substitute about 1/3 cup chopped shallots)
1/2tp salt
1/2 cup vegetable oil(any mild kind will do)
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup dried red chilles(stemmed)
-put everything but the oil in a food processor and grind to a loose dry paste.
-heat oil in a large sauce pan until very hot and almost smoking
-scrape the paste from the food processor into the pan stirring the paste into the oil and being carful not to splatter the oil (if you are using a small sauce pan alternatively pour the hot oil over the paste in a heat proof bowl to save your face from the deathly oil splatters)
-reduce heat to low and simmer for 30 seconds to a minute and then turn off heat (if you used a bowl return the oily paste to the saucepan over low heat)
-leave the paste in the hot pan and let it cook as the pan cools down. when room temperature transfer to some sort of container and refridgerate.(i like to use a small ball jar..this recipe fits perfectly)
-if the sauce has any sort of raw flavor or smell and is not wondefully warm and fragrant then return to the sauce pan and cook a little more over low heat
-works great as a condiment but really shines through when added to a stirfry.
-after a few days the flavors realy start to melt together...
hope you enjoy
sorry...only one 1/2 teaspoon of salt...with out Molly as my editor I'm nothing...
Post a Comment
<< Home